We learned that weather forecasters are as bad here as anywhere else. Instead of rain, we had a beautiful sunny day, perfect for our walking tour of Copenhagen. We set off along a now-familiar route, taking the Strøget NE. We had the guidebook with us, with the walking tour and map pages flagged for easy reference. We took a right turn at the big plaza to get better views of the big, historical buildings along the canal that sort of loops through old Copenhagen, the same canal we toured on Saturday. Took a kind of roundabout route through the financial district. Found ourselves inevitably back at Nyhavn, but continued north along the water. Stopped for a rest and a beer at an outdoor place on the waterfront. Learned from the very helpful waiter that we didn't need to tip in Copenhagen, at least not at the level we're used to, as the salaries for waiters and bartenders do not depend on tips as they do in the US. Extra can be given for exceptional service, but 5% is special and 10% is extremely generous. That being the best advice we received the whole trip, he got a generous tip. (Besides, we were short on change.)

Familiar territory: walking up the Strøget again, this time in sunny weather.

Jill and Mark pose at the big fountain in the plaza.

Crossing over the canal as we detour through the government/financial sector. A canal tour boat approaches, probably the same tour we had the previous afternoon.

The dramatic statue of Absalon on horseback greets visitors on the sidewalk.

One of many large government or civic buildings in this area of the city. Didn't check to see who was the subject of this statue.

Looking back at Nyhavn (in sunlight this time) as we walk along the canal toward the harbor.

Just north of there was the entrance to Amelienborg Palace. Strolled in past the big fountain, and found ourselves in the huge courtyard with a bustling crowd waiting for the noon changing of the guard ceremony, which was only a few minutes away. Eight or ten guards in slate-blue uniforms with big furry black hats marched out from the west gate and began their routine. The guidebook says the summertime CotG is boring when the queen is not in residence (as was the case for us; the flagpole was empty), since it's just a swap. The ceremony itself was interrupted by an alarm (said the police officer) and would resume in a few minutes and continue until all the guards on the palace grounds had been replaced. Lauri wanted to stay for that, but Jill and I wanted to explore some of the interior of the palace. We bought tickets for the museum in one of the 4 nearly identical palace structures. The museum, on two floors, basically displayed several palace rooms as they looked during the time of certain kings and queens. We saw the personal offices of the last 3 kings of Denmark, plus the office of Queen Louisa (who was married to Frederick, father of the current queen Margrethe). Other rooms included the throne room, reception hall, ballroom, library, each as it was in some former period, plus plenty of photographs, portrait paintings, and personal objects in display cases. We didn't read every placard along the tour, but did learn something of Danish history. (For instance, the current ruling family can trace its lineage back to the 900s.) Lauri was waiting for us in the foyer of the museum, out of the sun, after having watched the full guard ceremony, in which the crowd had followed each guard as he made his way from the assemblage at the south gate across the courtyard to his post. Which also explains the paths marked by different-colored stones in the courtyard; the guards must keep to the proscribed route.

The large fountain at the east entrance to Amelienborg Palace.

One of four nearly identical buildings that comprise Amelienborg Palace. The palace is laid out like a stop sign, with openings in the middle of the top, bottom, left, and right segments, the 4 buldings making up the rest of the perimeter.

Palace guards march through the central courtyard in the Changing of the Guard ceremony.

Inside Amelienborg Palace, a hugh chandelier lights up a royal hall.

Sunlight streams through tall windows into the ballroom of the palace.

From there we headed west to the huge decorated dome of Frederickskirke. The church was open to visitors, but a sign just inside the door demanded quiet. Took a few pictures of the ornate interior (well, ornate for a Lutheran church, but apparently that was the style at the time), and then retraced our steps to Amelienborg Palace, exiting this time through the north instead of going all the way back to the waterfront on the east side. Passed the Italian embassy on our way up the street, and eventually came to a broad parklike area with a much higher density of tourists. Figured we were getting close to the Little Mermaid, so continued on, past statues and flower beds and trees and grass, coming on to an esplanade along the water. Sitting at the edge of the water was the rock with the statue of the Little Mermaid on it. Lots of people, but no real lines (or any sort of organization, for that matter), but it didn't seem to be an issue; people moved in for photographs from whatever vantage point they wanted and then moved out again. We got our pictures within a couple minutes and headed back. Jill stopped to purchase a watercolor (of Nyhavn) from the artist, one of many vendors with tables set up along the walkway. We picked up water bottles (the ones we had started the day with were by now empty), and headed south along the waterfront.

West of Amelienborg Palace is the ornate dome of Frederickskirke (Frederick's Church).

Inside the church, looking up at the dome. Pictures were allowed, but talking wasn't.

The statue of The Little Mermaid celebrates the writings of Hans Christian Andersen. The sun angle is better in late afternoon; this was the best close-up shot we got that day.

The wide esplanade along the water was crowded with tourists and vendors.

The small statue sits on a rock just at the water's edge, with eager photographers clambering down the rocks to get close-ups while canal boats surge in from the other direction.

By this time we were ready for lunch (and a good, long sit-down), but didn't want to go all the way back to Nyhavn to eat. Decided to return to the spot where we'd had the beer earlier, a restaurant called "Salt" which was just south of the entrance to Amelienborg Palace. Settled in for what turned out to be a long lunch. The menu was a la carte, and we each ordered two light items, although by the look on the waiter's face you'd think we were committing a crime or something. Jill started with melon salad, Lauri with steamed mussels, and I with pickled and marinated herring. (When in Rome, and all that.) The next course was a salted salmon (lox) for Jill, a chicken caesar salad for Lauri, and a gazpacho for me. The food, typically, was quite good but expensive.

Jill enjoys a glass of wine at lunch. After all that walking, we needed a sit-down.

Continued south, taking the shorter route back to Nyhaven, and then along the Strøget, stopping in several stores (including the only official Lego store in Copenhagen), and even snagging a gelato cone on our way back to the hotel. Showered and took a nap, and agreed that we would not call each other until after 6. I added to the journal, and we didn't actually hook up until after 6:30.

A Lego mural adorns a wall of the Lego store, on the Strøget not far from our hotel.

The plan was for me to get a dinner recommendation from the concierge and then head up to L&J's room with the details. No concierge in sight, so I asked Donald, the clerk at the registration desk, who recommended a place called Peder Oxe and even called them to make a reservation for us. Left the hotel about 7:15, naturally taking the Strøget again, but turning left at the big brick church. Which, as it turn out, was the wrong street. We should have turned at the Lego store. But the map showed us how to get to the X that the clerk had drawn. We were on the inside of an L-shaped block, and simply needed to walk around to the outside. Found the restaurant easily, and asked the hostess for a table outside. Noticed as she checked our name off the reservations book that she had spelled Thonssen correctly, even though Donald had not spelled it out over the phone and had pronounced it with a hard T. I guess this is the only place in the world that I don't have to spell Thonssen! The hostess said there was a wait for an outside table, but seated us inside so we could look at the menu and have something to drink until a table opened up. We ordered drinks, and after a bit of a wait, ordered a first course. A table became available, so we moved outside and were served the appetizers there. I had sauteed summer mushrooms, while J&L split a carpacchio of beef. For the main course, Lauri had filet, Jill had the lamb, and I had the Dover Sole. Dinner was very liesurely, so we opted for dessert when the time came. Jill and I both had a platter of dessert tapas, very creative, and Lauri selected chocolate truffles with her coffee. By the time we finished, the sun was down and the sky was growing dark (which in early July in Scandinavia is saying something). Ambled our way back along Strøget to the hotel. This was our third round trip down the Strøget, so setting that as a separate sightseeing goal really wasn't necessary. Stopped in the bar for a nightcap, catching the bar in its last 10 minutes of being open. Hadn't realized it was that late, but the bar closes early on Sunday. Made it easy on the bartender by ordering things he had on hand and didn't have to mix. A glass of red wine for Mark and Lauri, and a kahlua for Jill. Make that a kahlua and cream. Had our one drink, then headed off to bed. Jill's pedometer read nearly 19 thousand steps for the day. No wonder our feet were tired.