Day 11: Wednesday, May 3

Huatulco

We weren't scheduled to arrive in Huatulco until about noon, but the captain decided, since the winds can be tricky and the pier is in a narrow bay, that arriving earlier meant better docking conditions. So, they cranked the ship up to top speed and pulled into the pier about 10:30. This was the first docking that had taken place in late morning, so lots of people lined the aft rails to watch us back in to our parking spot.

backing into the cove at huatulco
Passengers line the aft rail to watch the ship back into the cove at Huatulco.

watching the docking
Standing at the rail and looking forward, we see the crowds watching the docking from the Navigation, Lido, and Sports decks.

The difference in appearance between Huatulco and Costa Rica was rather surprising, considering they're not that far apart in latitude or climate. But Huatulco is rocky, dry and dusty, with greyish, scrubby-looking trees that have not yet begun to bloom. The rocks and dirt are light tan in color, although the various beaches looked inviting.

rocky outcroppings and isolated beaches
The coastline is rocky, peppered with small, isolated beach coves like the ones seen here at center and far right.

The elderly couple (duh!) we talked to at breakfast said they'd been here several years before, when Huatulco was just starting to be developed. Judging from the new concrete pier and the various condos under construction on the hill, It appears that there's been some effort to convert this secluded spot into a honest-to-goodness cruise port.

huatulco pier
A view of the pier as the ship moves carefully into position.

from the sports deck
We move back up to the Sports deck to catch this view of the pier and the crowd.

patrol boat
Also docked at the pier was a Mexican patrol boat, complete with deck guns fore and aft.

thrusters
A glimpse over the starboard rail showed the water and mud churned up from the thrusters as the Veendam sidled up to the pier.

beach cove
One of the more developed beach coves in the area, adjacent to the "downtown" shopping area.

After taking some pictures, we headed back to the room to download the cameras and update the journal.

Soon, it was time to get ready for the excursion. Met up with M&D in the Rubens to await our call to disembark. Followed our tour guide down to the end of the pier and around the marina to a sailboat (I'm guessing about a 35 footer), where we boarded and then motored out past the ship to open water. I'd say the sailboat was a bit overloaded with the 20 or so passengers, but there were seats for everyone. Jill and I sat at the stern, facing forward.

sitting at the aft
Our seats were at the aft of the sailboat. Here, the deckhand takes our picture after handing out some beers.

the starboard perch
Mom and Dad sat about amidships on the starboard side.

There were some swells, but the Pacific was not rough. We had clear but slightly hazy skies and warm temperatures, much easier to endure when we remembered we'd get to go swimming on this excursion. The sailboat followed a route that took it west along the coast. Our guides pointed out the several coves with beaches that dotted the shoreline. The beach coves near the pier were developed, as was the westernmost of those we visited, but the others were pristine, accessible only by sea or--in some cases--by ATV.

We passed a couple blowholes, products of the erosion of the rocky coast and the propensity for sea level caves in the area. We circled a small island and sailed alongside a pod of dolphins. We also saw a sailfish. We didn't technically sail on the boat before arriving at the beach, as the boat was completely under diesel power. We circled back and pulled in to Organo Beach, so called because of the numerous organ-pipe cactus peppered across the landscape. The Bahias de Huatulco boasts something like 9 bays and 35 beaches, all of which look like something you'd see in a travel magazine: remote, unpeopled, pristine.

blowhole
After several tries with the cameras, we capture the blowhole in action.

untrammeled beach
We sailed into a few of the coves before arriving at the beach where we took our swim. Here, a point of sand extends into the aquamarine water. This photo shows how steep the beach can be at the water's edge.

After dropping anchor a bit off the beach, those that wanted could jump into the water, and walk the beach. Jill and I got wet, and the water, though warmer than it needed to be, felt good after the boat ride in the sun. We climbed ashore (the beaches here are rather steep coming out of the surf) and trekked across coarse golden sand to the west end of the beach. The entire stretch of Organo Beach is not more than 300 yards from rock to rock. We watched some tiny fishes and a multitude of dark-colored crabs scurrying over rocks and through tide pools, before heading back along the beach. Got back in the water about halfway and swam back to the sailboat at a much slower pace, a necessity given the strong surge of the waves. We played in the water until time to reboard, after which we rinsed off in fresh water (a large cooler had been brought along for just that purpose) and had a snack, a bag of peanuts coated with a hard, crispy shell.

We pulled out of the bay, and once out in open water, the crew raised the jib, and floated along without motor power. The crew said the boat was too heavy to raise the mainsail in these seas. Besides, they would have to take down the canvas shade awning that covered the deck aft of the mainmast, placing all the old folks in direct sunlight.

coastline
This view shows the scrub-brush of the dry, rocky coast. Our guides told us we were just ahead of the rainy season, and the entire coastline would be green and in bloom in about 4 weeks.

the jib is up
The jib was raised for the "sailing" portion of our excursion. Without the mainsail, the jib basically just kept the boat pointed downwind.

After "sailing" for a while, we headed back to the harbor cove, furled the jib, and puttered back to the marina. Jill went shopping, while the rest of us walked back down the pier to the ship. Mom went for the Sea View pool; I took a cool shower to rinse off and changed into clean clothes. Jill was back by the time I finished. I napped. Jill was just starting her nap when I awoke, so I went up to the crow's nest to watch the sunset and grab some noshies until time to dress for dinner. Woke Jill up, and re joined M&D in the dining room.

Time again for the fun and frivolity of Randall in the piano bar. The NTT was titled Anatomy 101 and featured songs with body parts in the title. Hung around for the second set, but Randall did more talking than playing. Still, we had fun, and ambled our way back to our staterooms about 11:45.

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